If all this seems like hard work, don’t worry, you will soon become familiar with the types of tropical fish that work well in your tank and even have some favorites that you like to keep. When choosing fish for your aquarium, here’s some tips to keep in mind:

1. Fish appearance. Observe the particular fish you are interested in carefully to make sure he is active and swimming around properly. Make sure his fins are not chewed and he doesn’t have any growths or white fuzzy patches.

2. Tank condition. Dealers tanks can have parasites and disease that might not be apparent in your fish right away so you need to observe the other fish in the tank and take a good look at the tank conditions. Is the tank clean? If not that is an indication that the dealer probably doesn’t care for the tanks well. Make sure the other fish in the tank are alert and swimming around actively. Avoid buying a fish from a tank that has dead fish floating in it. Even if your fish appears to be healthy, he could already be infected with something that might not show up until days after you get him home. By then it might be too late and you could risk infecting your other fish.

3. Water Conditions. The condition of your water is important as well as the number of fish you already have in the tank. If your water condition is poor then adding more fish will just make things worse and endanger the health of all the fish in the tank. Also, you should be careful not to overload your tank with too many fish as this will cause stress on all the fish as well as cause your water quality to degrade. The general rule of thumb for freshwatertropical fish tanks is 1 inch of fish per gallon of water. If you add too many, you will have to spend more time changing the water and will need really good filtration in order to keep your tank healthy.

4. Water Temperature. Not all tropical fish like the same temperature water. While most will do well with temps in the mid 70′s some do better in cooler waters while others like it on the warm side.

5. Fish size. Before you buy a new fish you might want to find out how big he can be expected to eventually grow. Since your tank can support about 1 inch of fish per gallon, you wouldn’t want to put a fish that might grow to 5 inches in your 5 gallon tank or he might be the only one you can have!

6. The type of fish. Is your new fish aggressive or does he play well with others? Is he OK being the only one of his kind in the tank or will he do better in a school. Make sure you only put fish that will get along in the tank or the more aggressive fish will pick on the others. Also, some fish are territorial and you should only keep one per tank.

7. The food. Find out what type of food your new fish likes to eat. Most eat flakes, but some like freeze dried worms or other types of food. When you bring home your new fish be sure to also take home some of his favorite dinner.

Source: Free Articles

For most fish, just any water will not do. There are two main types of fish: saltwater fish and fresh water fish. You can kill fish by putting them in the wrong kind of water. A salt water fish does not thrive in fresh water, and you can easily kill a fresh water fish by putting it into salt water. This means that you have to be careful when selecting fish for your tank. You need to make sure you are getting the right fish for your tank. Otherwise, you will find your fish belly up in a mere matter of days.

If you are set on particular fish, then it is important to determine what kind of water they will need before you buy them. You want to make sure that you will have access to the proper water before buying the fish. After all, it is so much a waste of money to buy fish when you cannot get the proper water. And many pet shops will not take fish back. This is because they might pick updiseases, and shop owners do not want to take them back. On most fish, there is a no return policy in force at the majority of pet stores. So do your research ahead of time so that you know exactly what you need in terms of water for your desired fish.

The other thing you need to make sure you have is the proper fish tank. Some tanks are made specifically for salt water, and some are made for fresh water. There are tanks that are made for both, so that you can use either. Before you purchase your fish, make sure that you have the right tank. You want to be sure that your tank is the right kind of home for your fish. Plus, you do not want to ruin the tank by putting the wrong kind of water in it. Tanks can be quite expensive, and it is a bad idea to ruin one with the wrong water. Getting a tank meant for either type of water can be a good move, as it allows you the flexibility to change your mind later on down the road.

Source: Free Articles

The ideal freshwater aquarium setup is housed in the best tank and adequately oxygenated by sufficient aerators, conditioned by effective filters, illuminated by appropriate lighting, sustained by efficient heaters, and enhanced by aesthetically designed décor. How to put them all together to work harmoniously may seem like a Herculean task but with a few simple steps to follow, installing a new aquarium is just one of the many fulfilling adventures in tropical fish keeping.

Preparations

Before heading out to the aquarist store to buy everything you need for your new hobby, plan out the installation on paper. This will save you the trouble of having to redo or return equipment and tank inhabitants when things don’t quite come together. These are the steps to take before anything else:

1. Decide on the size of the tank and its location. It’s best to get the biggest tank you can afford because communities are easier to establish in large aquariums. Remember, though, that a large tank will also require a sturdy stand, and appropriately sized lighting, filtration, aeration, and heating equipment. The ideal location is where you have elbowroom for maintenance and access to water, and which is not too near direct sunlight or a heat source.
2. Decide on the types of equipment you will use. With the many available models of filters, aerators, heaters, and lights, you have a wide array to choose from.
3. Decide on what types of fish you want to keep. Do enough research on the different requirements of the various species of tropical fish, and from there, plan out your landscape.
4. Choose the substrate and decorations you will use. You can include live (or plastic) plants, rocks, slates, driftwood, colored stones, pots, non-toxic figurines, and tank backgrounds. It will help if you can draw a landscape design as a guide.
5. Ask a friend or family member to help you install your aquarium. Remember that water conditioning ideally takes about a week, so, don’t expect to introduce fishes into the setup the same day you install the tank

Initial Setup

You can purchase your tank, equipment, and decorations on the same day. Buy your plants and fishes a few days after you’ve set up the tank so that the water will have stabilized, in terms of composition and temperature, and be just right for its new inhabitants. Here are the initial installation steps:

1. Clear the area where the tank will be placed. Position the baseboard or Styrofoam pads and place the tank on it, making sure the tank is absolutely level. Remember that once the tank is set up, it is not advisable, if not impossible, to nudge or push it about.
2. If you are using an under-gravel filter, assemble the parts as directed and position it on the floor of the tank. Under-gravel filters are most effective if they cover the entire floor of the aquarium.
3. Wash all décor under clean running water. Rocks, shells, and driftwood may need to be scrubbed to remove dirt and unwanted deposits. Wood should be pre-soaked; otherwise, it will float.
4. If you are using large rocks that need to sit firmly at the bottom of the tank, position them directly on the under-gravel filter. Then pour the pre-washed substrate to cover the filter plates. Slope the substrate a little so that the contour is slightly lower towards the front.
5. Arrange other large decorative items as desired. Be sure that none of the décor leans on the tank walls.
6. Install the aeration and heating systems. Organize the tubing and wiring so that they can be easily concealed, convenient to manage, and safe from accidents.
7. Carefully fill the tank with water. So as not to disturb the substrate and décor too much, put a saucer on the substrate to control the water flow.
8. Turn on all the equipment to check if everything is working properly as expected. If you’re using plastic plants and incorporating water-conditioning products like EcoBio-Block, you can put them in at this time. Let the setup stabilize for a couple of days.

Introducing Plants

Your initial setup will have become stable after a few days — it’s then ready to receive the flora and fauna.

When you purchase your live plants, some of them will be sold in clusters or bunches. Separate them so that they can be planted individually for better growth and proliferation. Remember to wash them under clean running water to remove unwanted debris or parasites. Remove dead and bruised leaves and roots.
Referring to your landscape design, position your plants to your heart’s delight. Start by planting the tall ones at the sides and at the back ends of the tank. Use smaller, rosette-type plants as foreground accents.

Don’t worry if after finishing your landscaping the water will be a bit murky – the filtration system will fix this for you in no time.

Assemble the overhead lighting hood, position it properly, and turn it on. It’s best to give the plants and the new ecosystem a little time, like a day or two, to establish a healthy environment before introducing the fish.

Introducing Fishes

When the set-up is ready for its swimming inhabitants, that’s the time to purchase the fish. Remember to introduce a few fishes at a time. Bringing in a whole community of assorted species all at one time will only lead to chaos and severe stress.

Allow the fish to acclimate to the tank’s water temperature by keeping them inside the plastic bag they were transported in. Float the unopened bag on the water surface for about an hour. Then open the bag, and gently net the fish from the bag into the tank. Try not to pour the water from the plastic bag into the tank to minimize contamination.

Introduce other community members a few at a time, when the current inhabitants have become comfortable in their new home.

One of the joys you will experience in fish keeping is making sure that the underwater kingdom you have conjured remains in its ideal, pristine condition for the longest time possible. Feeding and looking after the health and wellness of the plants and fish is just one aspect of tank maintenance; housekeeping is another.

Keeping your aquarium clean doesn’t have to be unpleasant or tedious. Some minor tasks can be done regularly to avoid, or delay, a major cleanup or an overhaul. Usually a tank overhaul is necessary only when severe pollution has occurred, and a new setup is the only way to remedy the situation. If you can take care of your aquarium community diligently enough, there will be no need for a major cleanup for many years.

Let’s look at the essential tasks in keeping your aquarium setup clean and well maintained.

Maintenance Routines

Your aquarium contains living organisms that feed, respire, grow, age, and expire. From bacteria and other microorganisms, to algae and broad-leafed plants, to an assortment of exotic tropical fishes; the ecosystem in your aquarium comprises a slice of natural life. As caretaker of this ecosystem, you must be there to ensure that the natural balance is maintained.
On a regular basis, therefore, these are the things you need to take care of:

1. Half an hour after every mealtime, remove all uneaten food. They will rot, clog the filters, and make your water toxic for the fish.
2. Daily, check all the equipment supporting your aquarium. Be sure all working efficiently because when filters, lights, aerators, or temperature regulators fail, there is a major risk of pollution and distress.
3. Observe the fishes – isolate and medicate those that look weak and sickly before the whole tank becomes contaminated.
4. Check your aquarium glass cover – clean as necessary so that tank illumination is not hampered.
5. Check for the growth of algae. You can scrape it off the walls with an algae scraper, a scrub pad, or a magnetic cleaner.
6. Trim overgrown plants and remove dead leaves and branches.
7. On a weekly or bi-weekly basis, perform partial water changes to minimize ammonia and nitrate build-up. Replace no more than 20% of the total water volume, and be sure that the replacement water is of the same temperature and composition as that of the tank. In between water changes, add fresh water to make up for quantity lost through evaporation.
8. Siphon off wastes and debris that have accumulated on the substrate, the plants, décor, and at the corners of the tank. Stir the top of the substrate a bit to unearth the dirt and debris. You can use a siphon hose or a glass tube sediment remover. This task can be performed while siphoning off water for the regular water change.
9. Clean or replace all filter elements (carbon, filter wool, sponge, etc.) every two-to-three months. You may also need to have your power filters and pumps checked and serviced for worn out parts.
10. Replace fluorescent and UV lighting once or twice a year because these bulbs degrade with use.
11. Consider using a water-conditioning product like EcoBio-Block to clarify water and reduce the need for water changes.

If despite diligent maintenance, you find yourself having to deal with accidents, pollution, or a change of mind, here’s a short tutorial on how to do a general overhaul of your aquarium.

Providing your fish with the right types of food at the right time is crucial. For your pet fish to flourish in their captive environment, they need to assimilate nutrients that are identical to those found in their natural habitat.

Fortunately, different types of fish food, packed with necessary minerals and nutrients, and prepared in various forms, are commercially available. With your knowledge of your specific fishes’ nutritional and feeding requirements, and the help of your nearest well-stocked pet food store, your fish communities can enjoy the diets essential to their health, appearance, and life span.

Feeding Principles

There are several basic principles you need to remember when feeding aquarium fish. By following the feeding tips related to these principles, you can rest assured that your fish community will remain in an equilibrium and in optimum health.

1. Each specie of fish has unique food and feeding requirements. Carnivores will need plenty of protein — from meat slivers or small fish. Herbivores will require adequate fiber — from plants and algae. Some species appreciate chasing live food like insects and worms.
Tip: Research on the food requirements and feeding habits of each breed of fish you keep. Then inspect the different types of food commercially available. This will help you determine which types of food you need to stock up on.
2. Overfeeding can be hazardous to your fish community. Fish can only eat as much as their stomachs will allow. Typically, fishes are able to swallow their one-meal intake within three to five minutes from the time the food is introduced into the tank. After that, the leftovers will remain suspended in the water and start to decay, polluting the environment. Not even the most efficient filtration system can counteract a heavily contaminated setup.
Tip: Feed the fish a little at a time, at regular intervals during the day, instead of dropping one “big meal” into the tank. To help minimize accidental pollution and maintain a clear and healthy environment for the fish, consider incorporating a water-conditioning product in your set-up like the EcoBio-Block.
3. Fish can also get obese — another consequence of overfeeding. Some breeds of fish (like cyclids and catfish) are prone to non-stop eating, giving way to obesity and poor health. Fish food that are too fatty (like Whiteworms) should be given sparingly.
Tip: Be aware of this obesity phenomenon and feed only the quantity and quality of food that will ensure good health and nutrition.
4. Sometimes not all the fish are able to eat properly. In a community tank, fast swimmers and hyperactive fish will get to the food sooner than the rest. Juveniles will be more picky than adults. Nocturnals will only eat when it’s dark. Surface feeders will only eat food that are floating; bottom feeders will only eat food that have sunk. A new fish may be too shy to approach the food, and sick ones will simply ignore the feedings.
Tip: Observe all the fish during feeding time. Ensure that all of them are able to eat properly and adequately.
5. Fish appreciate variety in their diets. Feeding your fish the same food for months at a time can lead to some form of malnutrition. In their native habitats, fish obtain a variety of foods, so this is what you should strive to simulate.
Tip: Vary the types of food you give your fish community — through a mixture or alternation of prepared foods (dried and frozen), live foods, and greens, for a balance of carbohydrates, proteins, vitamins, and minerals.
6. Live or fresh foods, though nutritious and preferred by most fishes can be risky. Worms, insect larvae, water fleas, and brine shrimp are just some of the live foods that most fish enjoy chasing and gobbling up. Unfortunately, introducing these tasty delights into your aquarium poses the risk of introducing disease-carrying bacteria or accompanying predators (leeches and diving beetles) as well.
Tip: Always rinse live and fresh food under clean running water to remove dirt and dead ones. Culture your own batches, if possible, to avoid harvesting unwanted predators. And scoop out the uneaten ones after each meal because they will eventually die and pollute the water.

Nutritional Requirements

In order to understand what types of foods are essential for your fish, here’s a rundown of the different nutrients that are crucial for fish health and longevity:

1. Proteins – About 50 percent of the total calorie requirement of fish come from proteins. Amino acids, the building blocks of muscles, cells, and tissue are essential, especially for juvenile fish.
2. Carbohydrates – More required by freshwater fish than marine fish, carbohydrates are also necessary for energy and growth.
3. Fatty Acids – The major energy source for most fish, fats are stored in their tissues to provide stamina and serve as storage medium for fat soluble vitamins A, D, E, and K.
4. Minerals – Abundant sources of minerals exist for fishes in their natural habitat. In an aquarium, fishes will need prepared food fortified with minerals (like calcium for their bone formation).
5. Vitamins – The essential vitamins your fish need are: A (from greens and crustaceans), B-Complex (from greens, eggs, and yeast), C (from greens, algae, and fish eggs), D (from snails, shrimps, and earthworms), E (from algae, greens, and egg yolk), and K (from water fleas, greens, and liver).
6. Fiber – Also a necessary diet component for fish, fiber is abundant in vegetable matter.

Many years ago, I got involved in an aquarium decoration contest, where my winning entry was a tall 100-gallon tank that featured a fully set-up 5-gallon tank inside it. I can’t remember what fishes I put in there but I won the gold ribbon. I was proud of my ingenuity.

I often stretch my creativity when I decorate tanks for myself and others, but there are certain limitations and basic guidelines I work with, to ensure that my originality and ingenuity don’t become hazardous to the living creatures I have in my tank.

Pollutants

Water is the universal solvent, and anything that dissolves in water has the potential to pollute your tank environment. Therefore, the following water-soluble materials should never come in contact with the water in your aquarium:

* Paper-based items
* Textile or fabric
* People food

In case of minor pollution accidents, and to minimize the hazardous effects of cloudy and contaminated water, consider adding water-conditioning products like EcoBio-Block, which uses beneficial bacteria to clarify and deodorize the habitat.

Toxic Materials

Chemicals dissolved in water can render your fishes ill in minutes. At high concentrations, toxic materials can kill them in seconds. Exposure to metallic substances that can contaminate the water, even in negligible quantities, can eventually stress the environment and make your pets susceptible to disease.

Here are some of the potentially toxic materials that you should keep away from your tank:

* Metallic objects or toys, figurines, and knick-knacks that contain exposed metals
* Dyed items that leach when wet
* Oily items like crayons, modeling clay
* Items that have come in contact with household chemicals like detergents, pesticides, cleaners, and solvent

Natural but Hazardous

Most often we are misled by the idea that since a decorative item is natural, it’s safe for the aquarium. Since we are maintaining freshwater aquaria, introducing driftwood, rocks, and shells that we picked up along the way can risk upsetting the “freshwater-ness” of the tank.

The rule of thumb is to refrain from introducing anything natural that may have come from a non-freshwater environment. The risk is that these items may be carrying mineral deposits, microorganisms, and parasites that existed in their natural locations.
Rocks, shells, and corals that may be innovative additions to your aquarium may leach calcium and other minerals that will affect the stability of your water composition. Driftwood can leach tannins that your fish may not be able to tolerate.

Many attractive artificial (hard plastic; inert) alternatives are available, and highly recommended, but if you would rather use natural wonders, here are tips to ensure they are safe to include in your setup:

1. Wash the décor in clean running water, scrubbing off all loose particles. Do not use detergent. Boil rocks, shells, and corals for an hour or two for added measure. (Hint: Splash some vinegar on the rock/coral and if it sizzles, the item is calcium-rich and is better suited as a decorative accent on your bookshelf.)
2. Soak the décor in a bucket of clean water for about a week or two and replace the water daily. This will help remove minerals and tannins that could leach in water.
3. Dry the décor under the sun or in an oven to kill microorganisms and parasites that may still lurk within the item.

Moving and Disturbing

Those nifty action aquarium décor that opens and closes and goes up and down animated by bubbles rising from an air-stone can be quite engaging to onlookers. The pirate treasure chest, the little boy fishing, and the cute pearl clam — they look cute and interesting, but did you notice how they make some fishes nervous?
Eventually, the fish will get used to the animated items, but not before several days of stress and anxiety. By the time they get used to the jerky décor, it’s time to pull it out for a cleaning. Then when you put it back in, the fish will become jittery again. So, use your better judgment when using these supposedly attractive decorations.

What is cycling? Simply put, the cycling process is the time it takes to set up a biological filter for the nitrogen cycle to function inside the aquarium. Your aquarium is much more than a tank full of water, it has to be an entire contained eco-system to keep your fish healthy. The goal with your cycling time is to develop a culture of beneficial bacteria (or “bio-bugs”) that will break down the ammonia from the fish’s waste into nitrites, and then from nitrites into nitrates. Ammonia is extremely toxic to your fish and will kill them very quickly with much less than one part per million in your aquarium.

There are several methods for cycling. This is a method that is very effective, easy to do even for beginners and does not subject any live creatures to the potentially deadly cycling process. First, set up your aquarium with filtration, heater, aerator, etc. and fill with water. Add whatever de-chlorinator you prefer; if you’re not sure what’s in your water be sure you use a treatment that eliminates or neutralizes chlorine, chloramines and potentially harmful metals. With the filter running, add a tiny amount of fish food…about one or two flakes. The food can be old, stale food that’s no good for feeding anymore — it’s only there to rot. As the food decomposes it will produce the ammonia that will feed the bio-bugs as they get established in your aquarium.

That’s it! Keep adding one or two flakes every day throughout the cycling process, then do a partial water change before you add fish. It’s safe to add fish when both ammonia and nitrites test at zero but there are nitrates in the tank to show that ammonia is actually being broken down. A full cycle takes 36 days to complete, though some hardier fish can be added after a couple of weeks as long as you keep a close eye on the water parameters.

Don’t want to wait 36 days? There are a few products on the market that can help speed up the process. There are bottled, refrigerated products such as Bio-Spira that can give the cycle a big boost by adding the bio-bugs directly (via a liquid) instead of having to wait for them to get established in the aquarium. The only problem I’ve found with those products is that you add them, it boosts the bacteria, and that’s the end of its use. One great cycle-time reducer is the EcoBio-Block. This product is a little more expensive than Bio-Spira, but you get a lot better value for your money.

To use the EcoBio-Block, rinse it off in some de-chlorinated water and then place it in the tank after the water has been treated and filtration is going. Make sure you set it somewhere near the aerator or below the flow of an HOB filter (the kind that hang on the back of your aquarium). The EcoBio-Block has the beneficial bacteria the aquarium needs sealed into it; the flow of water facilitates the dissolving of the seal and ensures that the bio-bugs get the oxygen they need. These blocks can take a couple of weeks to start working (though sometimes they work much faster), and once it’s working you’ll be able to begin adding the fish you want, hardy or not, because this effectively finishes the cycle. Test your water; it may not be necessary to do a partial water change before adding fish unless there’s an excess of decomposed fish food in the bottom. Don’t take the block out! The EcoBio-Block is still useful for about 1 1/2 to 2 years; it’ll keep the bio-bug population healthy and contains all the trace minerals that normally have to be replenished through water changes. The minerals are time-released into the water to keep it healthy without constant water changes.

In short, the cycling process is simple but time-consuming. If you decide to shorten the cycle time take care with which product you purchase to help, there are a lot on the market that don’t actually do what you need. The above have proven to be good, reliable products that greatly aid with this process. Once you’ve achieved a good biological filter and the nitrogen cycle is up and running, you can start adding the fish!

If you are new to keeping fish you may be unsure which is the best aquarium to buy. What size is the best? What shape should you choose? Is is best to buy a traditional glass or an acrylic aquarium? We’ve put together this guide to give you the information you need so that you can choose the best aquarium for your room and the fish you will be keeping.

Aquarium Size

While many people believe that it is right to start off with a small aquarium, this is not actually the best choice since smaller tanks are much harder to look after and require much more effort to keep in a healthy condition. The reason for this is that smaller amounts of water are much more rapidly affected by any disturbances, hence if the outside temperature changes severely, for example, there will be a rapid change in the condition of the water inside your tank. A much larger fish tank will be a lot more stable. In addition, in a larger fish tank, the toxic waste from the fish, is dispersed over a larger area and will be less able to harm your fish. We recommend a 40 gallon tank at a minimum.

Glass or Acrylic?

Now you need to decide between a glass or an acrylic fish tank. You also need to have the shape of the tank you prefer in mind because some shapes, cylindrical for example, are only available in acrylic. Glass aquariums are in general less expensive than acrylic tanks but are a good deal heavier. They also tend to leak after a few years but this is easily fixed using silicon aquarium sealant. They are not offered in such a wide variety of shapes as acrylic tanks. If you are looking for an exotic shaped aquarium you will probably have to buy acrylic.

Acrylic tanks are pricier than all-glass tanks but are lighter and, because they are designed in only one piece, don’t have a tendency to leak. You need to take care not to scratch the exterior of the fish tank and not use any abrasive cleaning materials on the acrylic because this will scratch the outside causing it look cloudy.

The Shape of the Aquarium

The conventional rectangular fish tank is certainly the best shape for an aquarium because of it’s high surface to water ratio which allows the best gas exchange. Nevertheless if you desire a more interesting shape then you will have to make certain aeration is good to allow the fish to receive adequate amounts of oxygen. Acrylic tanks are made in a wide variety of shapes which includes cylindrical, hexagon, octagon, round and also wall mounted or made into coffee tables.

The Best Location for Your Fish Tank?

When thinking about the location for your fish tank ensure you have enough room and that the weight of the tank can be accommodated. A fifty gallon filled tank will weigh about 65 pounds so you must be careful that the floorboards and table are sturdy enough. Wall aquariums can be used on a dividing wall to allow viewing the aquarium from both adjoining rooms and can be a brilliant addition to a room.

Source:ezinearticles.com

A marine fish tank, also known as a saltwater fish tank or aquarium is a fun and rewarding hobby. What makes a saltwater fish tank so exciting and rewarding as compared to freshwater fish tanks is that the variety of fish and plants are much more robust. There are more species of fish and plant life that you can choose from all in a variety of exciting colors, shapes, and sizes. Of course, the beauty of these fish and plant life do require more of a time and money commitment then there freshwater fish friends. In this article, we will discuss some tips that will help with your saltwater aquarium set up.

One of the first things that you will want to do before you get started is some research in order to find out what types of fish and or plant life that you would like to have. You can go online, to your local aquarium or fish store, your local library, etc to conduct your research. When making your fish and plant selections make sure that, the fish and plant life that you choose are compatible. The last thing you want to do is select fish that will eat each other or that cannot live in the same conditions as the other fish and plants that you choose.

After you have chosen, the fish and plants that you want to inhabit your marine fish tank you should choose a proper tank for them to live in. There are a variety of options, styles, and sizes available on the market today. Make sure to choose a fish tank that is appropriate in size for the number of fish you intend to put in the tank. You do not want to add too many fish to the same tank as it will likely result in the death of your fish. You will also need to purchase whatever additional equipment you may need in order to run your aquarium. Be sure to consult with an aquarist or conduct your own research in order to determine what equipment you will need for the fish and plants you have chosen.

The final step in your saltwater aquarium set up is preparing your new marine fish tank with saltwater. After you have made the saltwater mixture, you will need to let the water circulate in the new tank for a minimum of thirty days before you begin to add fish. Once you add fish to your tank you will need to maintain the water to ensure the chemicals are at the appropriate levels and clean the tank about once week on the outside and change out 25 percent of the tanks water every thirty days or so.

Source:ezinearticles.com

If you have the same mindset I did years ago and you think that you need to drain your aquarium and scrub your tank clean frequently, you seriously need to read this post because you’re putting your fish in danger!

Before I get into the aquarium cleaning procedure, there are a few things you need to know. These things are actually more important than the actual procedure because anyone who owns an aquarium MUST know this if they want their fish to remain healthy.

What you must know first:

Fish were made to swim in ponds, lakes and rivers, not glass cubes full of treated water. However there are people like you and me who love caring for them, so over time we’ve figured out how to have them as pets, while continuing to provide them with a healthy environment. Here are a few things you MUST know in order to provide that ever-so-important healthy environment for your fish.

Fish need clean water to live. However, “clean” water to a fish is completely different than what a human would consider “clean.” If water isn’t crystal clear to us it’s dirty, right? Well that’s not necessarily the case with fish.

When a new aquarium is established a natural cycle begins. This cycle is called the biological filter and it is basically colonies of good bacteria which convert nitrite (harmful pollutants) into nitrate (harmless.) The nitrite is created by the fish waste and excess food, which also turns into ammonia.

This process can take a month or longer to fully be established and during that period of time your aquarium will need weekly 1/4 tank water changes to keep the harmful pollutants at bay! However, the average fish owner does not know that. THIS is why most beginner aquarium owners see their fish die very quickly!

When you drain all the water, replace the filters and scrub it all down, you’ll starting the natural cycle all over again, putting more stress on your fish and keeping them open to disease!

Steps to Clean your Aquarium Correctly

1. Remove all large ornaments and/or plants that get in the way.

2. Using a gravel vacuum, remove all waste and food from the sand or gravel. I like to shove the tube into the gravel quickly so it’s stirred up and waste gets knocked loose. I continue to do it, driving the tub into the gravel up and down until I’ve gone across the entire tank. Don’t stop until 25 – 50% of the water in your aquarium has been drained. The water will be very dirty, that’s FINE! As long as you get the big stuff from the floor, the fine particles that are floating around will settle and/or go through your filter.

3. Fill a bucket full of water (chlorine removed) and rub your hand across each filter until all of the heavy “slime” is off of it. Do NOT use any type of cleaner on the filter and don’t use tap water directly out of the sink (it has chlorine!) You can get it clean enough with your hand believe it or not. You just want to get the heavy stuff off, that’s all!

4. Use an algae scraper to remove the algae from the aquarium walls. It would be best to leave it, but it’s just not impressive for guests to visit you and see a green fish tank and it’s not that big of a deal, as the tank as a whole will still have some algae and bacteria.

5. Use a brush to clean all ornaments and plants, NO chemicals! You can use a soap and water mix, that’s it! After you’ve scrubbed them rinse them thoroughly.

6. Replace everything and fill your aquarium up with clean, treated water. Be sure to use some type of chlorine removing solution and it doesn’t hurt to use some conditioning salt as well to help prevent Ich and other diseases.

That’s it Now you want to do that monthly. bi-monthly is actually ideal, but monthly is fine too.

Source:fishcaretips