Diet and nutrition are so important for your pet birds and parrots. You should take the same approach to preparing healthy meals for your pet birds as you do for the family and yourself. Always check to see if a food is safe for your Bird before feeding it to them.

My daughter fixes her African Grey parrot this mixture and he loves it, Her recipe, which she received from a friend is made with,Quick Cooking Barley and Couscous pastina.

Cook up the couscous, pastina,the barley, let cool and she sometimes puts vegetables that she had leftover, with no salt and mixes the vegetables with the barley mixture and puts some fruit on top.

The parrots enjoy this meal. You must remember that your pet birds are part of your family, and must be treated as so.

In the Winter months, my Daughter has to be careful that the parrots don’t drink any of the Children’s hot Cocoa, or her Coffee.

The Veterinarian told her the cocoa and coffee, can cause heart problems and even death for your Birds. My daughter limits the Birds treats and very little salt.

She also gives her Parrots well cooked chicken for a treat,and she sprouts grains for herself to eat and the birds love it too.

She also checks the seed she feeds her parrots,by sprouting it,if it doesn’t sprout it is not fresh. Check with friends and your veterinarian, to find the best seed for your Birds.

If you want to feed your pet birds fruit, try to get the organic fruit.

As with any food don’t leave cooked food in the cage for more than an hour.

The vegetables my daughters Birds enjoy are, zucchini, string beans and their favorite broccoli.

Never feed your Birds food from your mouth, it may seem cute,but not sanitary for you or your bird. and never give your Birds alcohol it can harm their livers and make them very ill.

The seed you feed your Bird must be fresh for good nutrition.

Find out from friends and colleagues who own birds and parrots and exchange information on your pet birds health and nutrition.

Our feathered friends can live a long time and are part of our family and are important too, just remember to check first before you feed your Pet bird any People food it could harm them.

With proper care and nutrition, and Love your pet Bird will enjoy a full, happy and healthy life, with you and your family.

Source:ezinearticles.com

Choosing between the varieties of chicken breeds to raise can be quite bewildering. There are so many kinds to choose from, and all of them have different traits. Some may look really healthy but do not have enough egg laying capacity. Other chicken breeds give lots of eggs. If you could not distinguish between the types of chicken breeds, you may end up regretting raising chickens because you did not get what you expected.

There are really many factors to consider if you want to engage in raising chickens. First of all, you must have a big enough yard and a chicken coop for your poultry to live in. This factor is really important, as different breeds have different needs. Some breeds are quite small while others are large in size and so they have different size requirements.

The environment where you live is also a determining factor in choosing a chicken breed. If you live in a hot area, choosing chickens that are suited for colder regions would not be a good idea. Same is true with the chickens made for the warmer places. Putting these breeds in cold areas will not be good for their health.

The most weather resistant breeds are usually the crossbreeds. A good example of this is the Production Reds. This breed is resistant to cold weather, and they can also be tamed. If your area experiences cold weather frequently, then this breed is probably the right one for you.

Bantams are some of the feistier breeds. They like to fly around a lot, so putting them inside chicken coops is probably useless. They have really fluffy feathers, but they are not good in egg production. If they do produce eggs, these are usually small and not worth selling. If you want to venture into egg production, the Pekin and Silkie breeds are your best choices.

If you want to go for an all around breed, then try getting a Barred Plymouth Rocks. During summer, they frequently lay their eggs. They also have a pretty appearance, and they are not vicious, unlike other breeds. They are also really healthy and have good weight for their size.

Americaunas on the other hand, are very beautiful breeds. They have very radiant feathers having colors that resemble a falcon. It has dark and golden feathers that really mimic the beauty of the great bird of prey. Some individuals of this breed even have really curved beaks. These ones are prized more for their looks. If you want to get them to lay eggs, then you are out of luck. These breeds do not lay eggs very well, so you are better off choosing other breeds that are good in laying eggs. But one good feature with Americaunas is that it can withstand cold nights and even winters.

Choosing the right chicken breed can be a hard decision. You would have to consider not only your needs, but also the needs of your chickens. Choosing one carefully can make you enjoy your new venture of raising poultry.

Source:ezinearticles.com

You got your parrots settled at home and they are just beautiful. They bring you a lot of fun time. Now you get to the time when your lady parrot decides to lay an egg. You are very excited and worried at the same time. You as a caring guardian have to make sure that new member of your parrot family comes to life. So the question is always what to do. Here are some guidelines for you.

First of all, the best way is nature’s way. It means that the best is if their parents sit on their eggs for themselves. Will it happen all the time? Probably most of the time it won’t happen. I’ve watched chicken at my parents’ house – they would lay eggs every day and very rarely one or to hens would decide to sit on eggs. And even if they sit on eggs they wouldn’t be good sitters most of the time. My grandma said that best egg sitters are ducks. Unfortunately you can’t use that with parrots and therefore if you decide to support your parrot’s family you have to make a plan. Make for them a nest that will be warm enough and have good ventilation – rest is up to you loved birds.

Second make a backup plan. Remember that parrots as most of birds hatch in about 3 weeks. Therefore if you see that little mommy starts abandoning eggs too early be prepared to incubate them by yourself. Some breeders even suggest taking those eggs into incubator after 2 weeks of their mom sitting on them.

Third and almost forgotten – if you have only one female parrot and no male partner then your egg is not fertile and there will be no chicken. You bird can sit on it for a while and then realize that nothing happens.

Forth – mysterious and simple incubation. If you decide to incubate eggs artificially then you have to get a good incubator. When we are talking about good one we are talking about the one that can make conditions close to natural. So far I know that incubated chicks have far more mortality rates than naturally hatched. And that is true even for professionals. Most of mortality happens first two weeks after hatching. It just means that we are far away from parents’ care. But don’t be discouraged because it is doable and there is high chance of good chick coming out of the egg. So what to look for in incubator:

1. Good thermostat that can hold temperature in the range 98.7F to 100F

2. Good ventilation without vibration

3. Autorotation of eggs every ½ to 2 hours

4. Humidification from 38% to 50%. It is better to keep it around 45% and close to 50% when chicks are hatching.

So you got eggs and incubator – what to do next. First of all check incubator that it works – supports all the life supporting factors described above. After that put eggs into it as soon as you decide to take charge of the process. Turn on incubator and watch that temperature doesn’t go too high – remember after 104F protein gets broken, therefore don’t exceed 100F. The best try to keep it around 99.3F. Turn off incubator and open the lid to cool down eggs for about 10 minutes couple times a day. It is natural that they parents go to eat sometimes. At the same time turn eggs 180 degree by hand to make sure that egg isn’t always sitting on the same side down. Of course your incubator already has this function but usually they don’t do full turn – so it won’t hurt to do additional turn. Check level of water regularly so that eggs don’t get dehydrated. It won’t be a problem at the beginning but closer to hatching it could be detrimental. So good luck and see your newborns soon.

Source:ezinearticles.com

Crowned Pigeons are all native to New Guinea. They are large birds with a most remarkable dark greyish-blue and purple colour and lacy crest feathers – something which always makes them a main attraction to visitors at zoos. They are all more or less 680-740mm long, weigh 2,5-3,2kg and sexes are identical.

The Blue-crowned Pigeon (Goura cristata) from N.W. New Guinea, the Sclater’s Crowned Pigeon (Goura scheepmakeri) from S.E. New Guinea and the G.s. sclateri from S. New Guinea do not have white tips on their crest feathers. They all differ slightly in their sizes, shades of grey and blue and the amount and areas of chestnut, white and grey. The pigeon pictured here is most likely the Goura scheepmakeri with pure white wing patches and no white on its crest. The Victoria Crowned Pigeon (Goura victoria victoria ) is found in the Japen/Jobi islands and is slightly smaller and darker in colour than G.v. beccarii, which is the larger, stronger subspecies with a wider crest.

Their crests are particularly striking because of the white tips.

The Indian Mahajaras are believed to have been the first to keep Crowned Pigeons in captivity, and, apparently, these birds were successfully kept together with the common poultry. Hunting and shooting for sport has unfortunately led to a decrease in their numbers so that they are protected, although not in all areas.

These pigeons are not difficult to keep and maintain in aviaries. Their habitat is forested areas where they feed on seeds, fruits and insects. In captivity they are opportunistic feeders, quite happy with a selection of the following: insectivore and pheasant pellets, peanuts, whole corn, softbill mixes, mixed diced fruit, greens, diced carrot, figs (eg Ficus macro-phylla) and mealworms. Place their feed dishes on the ground.

Pigeons like to nest in baskets or wire trays that are hung high up in the aviary. As nesting material pine needles, palms, twigs and leaves can be offered. They build their nest inside the basket or wire tray. Their breeding season is from January to September. The courtship and nest building ceremonies are a delight to behold. Their deep, melodious call sounds like a beautiful jungle drum. One white egg is laid and incubated by the hen at night and the cock during the day for 30 days. The chick weighs 40g at hatching and grows at an amazing rate, reaching a mass of 600-700g in 40 days. After 13 weeks they can feed themselves. Those who have handreared pigeons can get them to eat by themselves at 8 weeks old.

One breeder keeps one pair of Crowned Pigeons per large aviary, as they are less distracted, healthier and breed better for him. He has found them to be aggressive towards medium sized pigeons, but other breeders keep more than one pair in a single enclosure. As long as the accommodation is spacious enough for them not to interact negatively, it seems to work well enough. Another source claims them to be compatible with many other bird species like pheasants, softbills, parrots and other dove and pigeon species. As long as there is sufficient plant cover, other ground dwelling species need not be in any danger, as these birds are generally not classed as aggressive. They spend most of their days on the ground and then roost high up in trees at night. Their wings should not be clipped, but keepers are asked to be aware of their inclination to strike with their wings – a rather unpleasant experience. Coming from a mild climate, these pigeons must not be exposed to cold, especially not frost.

References: Morris, Chris Ph.D, Those Magnificent Crowned Pigeons of New Guinea, “Game Bird and Conservationists’ Gazette”, Utah, USA, June 1998, p.4
Delacour, Dr. Jean, Wild Pigeons and Doves, t.f.h., 1980
Brown, Danny, A guide to Pigeons, Doves and Quail, Australina Birdkeeper, 1995

Avizandum is South Africa’s premier birdkeeping magazine, it deals with ornithology, birdkeeping and health care. All the articles are researched and written by professionals and enthusiasts of the birdkeeping community and are reproduced with their express permission.

Source:ezinearticles.com

Having a pet bird is rewarding. Pet birds are also somewhat demanding for those familiar with a “normal” pet, such as the house cat. So, if you are in the market to become a bird owner you will need to select a species that matches your way of life. You must be able to commit to the responsibilities, allotment of your time and resources that will ensure your bird stays healthy, happy and gives you the entertainment and enjoyment you were searching for when you decided to be a bird owner.

The following variety of birds are common selections as pets. Some general traits, life span, and more are provided for you to be able to pick the right bird for your situation.

1. Canaries and finches. They are small birds that need less space and therefore small to medium cages. They are normally about 5 inches in height and can be smaller. They are commonly knows as waxbills or softbills and thrive in small flocks. For this reason you probably don’t want to have just one. Three or more will make for much happier birds because they enjoy company and congregation. The canary and finch also require much less attention than larger birds require. This makes them an ideal compliment for the family or individual who does not have a lot of time to spend socializing and engaging in birds activities. If handled and cared for properly, these birds can live up to 10 years.

2. Parakeets. The parakeet is ideal for the family with kids. The most common type would be the Budgerigar or Bungee. A parakeet is a great “first time” pet for kids. They come in various colors, are petite, and are extremely intelligent for a smaller bird species. The parakeet has the ability for a limited vocabulary and can whistle and sing. They need a bit more attention than the canary and finch but usually are not excessively demanding of your time. A healthy and happy parakeet can live as long as 14 years.

3. Cockatiels. Cockatiels are popular stemming from there medium size and friendly disposition. They originated in Australia and are known for their singing and whistling capabilities. They have the ability to talk but often choose to whistle. They are excellent mimickers of sound. They can effortlessly emulate the sounds of barking dogs and the telephone ringing. Cockatiels are available in many color combinations and can live as much as 20 years within a healthy environment.

4. Lovebirds. Lovebirds are among the smallest species of parrot, normally reaching lengths of about 6 inches. They are clever and generally have wonderful personalities. They make great pets and are ideal for those who live in apartments and condos since they are typically quieter than other parrot species. They are not time demanding but you will want to spend time with them on account of their fun-loving personalities. Lovebirds are multicolored, attractive birds and, with proper care, can attain and exceed a life expectancy of 20 years.

5. African Greys. If you are not ready to live with a bird for probably the rest of your life, you should not have an African Grey. They can survive up to 70 years and they are ideal if you are looking to buy a companion for life. They’re generally considered the most intelligent species of parrot. They can be taught a vocabulary of approximately 2,000 words if trained well. They are very smart but also demanding. They do get bored and lonely. Be prepared to spend time with them, interact with them and participate in stimulating activities. They are very affectionate and your efforts are going to be rewarded with all of the attention you will be given.

If you’re looking for a pet bird for you or your family, these shown are some excellent possibilities. Always ask questions to the sales person or breeder before purchasing on how to specifically care for your pet. As often as you will benefit from their presence, you will need to be able to give them the time and quality interaction they want from you.

Source:petandfish.com

Before you can deal with a dog dominance issue at home or in dog obedience training, you must recognize that dog behavior and dog communication are not in line with human psychology. After all, your dog is a canine (canis familiaris of the Family Canidae), not homo sapiens. So he thinks like a canine, not like a person. Your dog responds as one might in a wolf pack, not as a human family member. He or she has real emotions, but they are canine emotions, not human emotions, and not to be mistaken as such.

The basic communication system of dogs involves three critical elements: silence, submission, and leadership, sometimes referred to generally as the dog whisper technique with elements of wolf pack communication. We will use these elements in this and subsequent dog training articles about solving Dog Dominance problems. You and I need to understand, “read,” and use your dog’s own communication system for optimal effectiveness in working with him.

Dogs have an inherent “pack psychology” which governs their thinking and actions. In a pack, there is one dominant one, and the rest are all followers. There is one “Alpha male” and one “Alpha female.” To relate to a dog from a position of strength, respect, and control, YOU must be the “Alpha Leader,” the “Pack Leader,” and you must use pack psychology and pack communication.

Often we see dominant dogs taken home as young pups, because people are amused by their spirited behavior. Actually, they are usually the first puppies chosen, the proverbial “pick of the litter.” However, if this “high-spirited nature” is not controlled, then things get out of control quickly . . . becoming worse over time . . . until the situation sometimes becomes dangerous. Dominance can lead to “violence.”

So you might look for a mature dog, such as a Shelter Dog or Rescued Dog. However, looking for a less dominant pet is not so easy in shelters. There a dog’s true nature is difficult to discern without the aid of an experienced person. While in the shelter, the dog rarely has an area or anything that is under the dog’s control, so there is little opportunity to observe possessiveness and dominance problems.

Nor are dogs cooped up in shelters able to burn off excess energy. It’s very hard for an untrained eye to differentiate between an excited “please take me home” and the more troublesome “I want to control you!” of the hyper-active, dominant canine.

But the dominance problem quickly becomes evident when you go home and relax, for dominance shows up where “weakness” is present. For example, petting your dog when it is submissive (e.g., sitting or lying down) is appropriate and desirable, but not when it is in an aggressive or dominant stance. If you display any sign of soft laxity at the wrong time because of your affection, that will be interpreted by your dog as weakness . . . and then, “Katie bar the door!” With dominant types, you simply cannot afford to let down your guard, or to make an exception “just this once” because the pup is so cute.

You must establish and maintain firm, consistent control of the Dominant Dog at all times. These eye-catching, spirited animals are highly intelligent and have great potential, but they also are usually very willful, stubborn, born leaders who seek to control you, other animals, and their environment. They want to rule the roost! You cannot give them an inch . . . or they will take it, and take it, and take it . . . over and over, time and again. These dogs are persistent!

For example, one friend had an Old English Sheepdog puppy, an “Alpha Female” about eight months old, who had a very bad reaction to a toxic flea dip in the 1970’s. As the puppy started to tremor, the frightened owners lifted their darling onto the foot of the bed, both for her comfort and to ease their own backs as they nursed her.

MISTAKE! That one incident led that puppy and her litter-mate to sneak onto the bed whenever possible . . . a pattern the owners never succeeded in terminating for the rest of the dogs’ lives!

Too many owners just coddle the two-and-three month old “babies” and think that puppy training can start later. NO! The intelligent, spirited ones, especially, must be “trained” from day one with consistency, with You clearly as the Master. Because of their high intelligence, they are ready much earlier than others for more formal types of training, too. Training helps remove boredom and release energy, while giving the prideful animal a proper goal for which to strive, and achievement about which to strut with regal, dignified, proud bearing and the clear satisfaction of pleasing.

“Don’t move with them, you lose them!”

I, too, have had a trying personal experience with an aggressive “Alpha pup.” I brought home a beautiful “Rescued Dog,” a retriever puppy from the Humane Society. She turned out to be the most willful and stubborn dog I have ever seen, striving for dominance in all things! There is no way she would have lasted in a “normal” home. However, because of my sheer determination with consistent, proper training, she is becoming a loving, playful, and obedient “sweetheart” who, without loss of any spunk or pride, nevertheless submits to my command by a mere glance. I am her undisputed “Pack Leader.”

Still, it wasn’t easy to get her to that state. In great frustration, I eagerly sought the advice of two other trainers with vast puppy experience. So I say to beleaguered Owners of aggressive, dominant puppies and dogs, “Don’t be embarrassed. This can happen to anyone! Never be ashamed to ask for help from a Dog Trainer.” (Just make sure they really understand pack psychology.)

If you have a dog dominance problem, there is a specific training technique that will work for you, and it centers on “FOCUS.” It applies the communication system of silence, submission, and leadership, and is a dog training technique which is effective with most dog dominance issues. [It’s much more effective and pleasant than hitting and yelling!]

So get help with control of the dog dominance behavior, and restore a right relationship with your pet, and peace and harmony in your home!

Source:findoutaboutdogs.com

As your dog sees it, the crate is a room of his very own – a “safety zone”. The crate helps to satisfy the “cave instinct” inherited from his cave-dwelling ancestors and relatives. Your dog will feel secure once accustomed to his crate. The crate can help you achieve a better relationship with your dog by preventing unwanted behavior when you aren’t available to supervise him.

The advantages of crate training:

With the help of a crate

• You can enjoy peace of mind when leaving your dog alone, knowing that nothing can be soiled or destroyed and that he is comfortable, safe, and not developing bad habits.
• You can housebreak your pet quickly by using the close confinement to motivate your pet to wait until taken outside, since canines naturally avoid soiling their sleeping area.
• You can travel with your dog without risk of the him getting loose and becoming lost or interfering with safe driving. And he may be quieter and more relaxed in a crate as he will feel protected and less inclined to bark.
• Your dog can enjoy the security and privacy of a crate of his own to which he can retreat when tired or stressed.
• Your dog can avoid much of the fear and confusion caused by your reaction to problem behavior.
• Since he can more easily adapt to staying in unfamiliar places as long as he has his familiar “safety zone” along, your pet can be included in family outings, instead of being left behind alone.

Buying a crate:

Look for a wire crate that includes a removable metal floor pan. Plastic crates can also be used, although some dogs will chew the plastic. For your pet’s comfort, look for one with a smooth floor, or you can add a crate bed for more comfort. Purchase a crate large enough for your pet to stretch out on its side and to sit or stand erect. If you have a puppy, it is more economical to buy a wire crate that will accommodate him as an adult, then partition it to the right size. A movable wire or pegboard partition can be made or purchased. Too large a crate can undermine housebreaking because your pet may eliminate at one end of the crate and lie down at the other. Depending on size and construction, a new crate may cost $40 – 250. This is a bargain compared to the cost of replacing a sofa, woodwork, or carpeting. Where’s the best place for the crate?

Dogs are social animals. Place the crate in an area where the family spends a lot of time – kitchen, family room, living room, etc. The top of the crate can serve as extra shelf or table space. At night, move your puppy’s crate into your bedroom so you can hear him if he needs to go out.

Will the crate work for all pets?

Unfortunately, no. There are some animals (usually adults) that can’t or will not tolerate this form of confinement. A few will show no desire to keep the crate clean.

By crate training, you are doing your pet a real favor by preventing him from getting into trouble when left unsupervised.

Source:findoutaboutdogs.com

Widely recognized as the most popular and effective way to housetrain puppies the crate method utilizes your dog’s natural instincts. Dogs are naturally clean animals and will not by nature relieve themselves in the area where they sleep.

Knowing how to communicate properly with your dog lies at the heart of the housetraining process. Lecturing, yelling or other forms of punishment will not achieve the desired result. The key is to reward good behavior. Puppies are like babies, much too young to be held responsible for their bowel movements. Punishments are not the way to get through to your puppy.  If you are going to use the crate method it’s vital that you learn about the proper, humane method to housetrain your dog.

Choosing the right crate

This is very important when it comes to the humane treatment of your puppy. A crate that is too small is very cruel. The puppy should have enough room to maneuver around and be comfortable inside. If the crate is much too large – the puppy might even relieve himself inside the crate.

The plastic varieties of crates are much easier to clean, durable and easier to carry around than the metal varieties.

It is also cruel to leave your puppy inside the crate for too long. Night time is crate time and often even very young puppies can go the entire night without soiling their crates.

You will want to slowly get the puppy used to the crate. The idea here is to create a positive feeling about the crate. Put a nice soft blanket inside and your puppy’s favorite toys too. You can also put some yummy treats inside to entice your dog.

Never, ever force your dog inside the crate. It is his sanctuary within your home.

Tips for housetraining

- Prepare the area that your puppy will spend most of its time in with a layer of newspaper.

- Designate an official toilet area for your puppy.

- Supervise (or have the children do it) until the puppy has relieved himself.

- If your puppy starts sniffing or circling pick him up and get him outside fast!

Golden rules for housetraining your dog using the crate method:

- Take your puppy out first thing in the morning.

- Take your puppy out directly after meals.

- If your puppy has had an accident be sure to clean the area thoroughly. Use a product that will remove the odor.

- Never punish your puppy for accidents. You would never yell at your baby and put her nose in her mess. Rather use positive reinforcement when your puppy does her business outside.

- Take your puppy out just before bedtime and make sure he does his business.

- Give praise freely where it is due. Treats, walks and positive reinforcement will go a long way toward getting your puppy to understand that eliminating outside is the goal.

Housetraining your puppy will take time and patience. The kind of dog and your methods will greatly influence how long it takes for your puppy to be fully housetrained.

There is a reason that the crate method is the most widely used housetraining method. It works well. Of course housetraining your puppy isn’t your only concern when it comes to raising a well behaved dog. You will also want to set some distinct boundaries. Puppies should not be allowed free reign of the house; at least not until they are fully housetrained. Your puppy is a sponge and above all – keen to please you. You are the pack leader and the puppy will look to you to figure out what is and isn’t acceptable in your home.

By deciding early what your puppy may chew on and what furniture he is allowed on you can eliminate confusion and behavioral pr

Source:findoutaboutdogs.com

What to Look for in a Dog Trainer’s Qualifications:

Certifications: How a trainer obtained their certification should be taken into consideration. A trainer should be certified through a specialized organization which trains dogs for services work or a dog training school which gives a credit equivalent to a college degree. Be aware that there are many companies which offer certifications on-line or through the mail; this involves a short written course which, for a fee, they will send you a certification. There are no standards to theses tests, allowing each company to determine what qualifies an individual to pass the “course”. Ask what type of certifications an instructor has.

Verify: how many years the trainer has been teaching professionally and not as a sports trainer or hobbyist. While years alone are not enough to determine the quality of a trainer’s experience, it will tell you something if they have had the ability to continue in their profession.

Licensed: Is the trainer licensed as a business and meets all city, county, state and federal regulations?

What to Look For in a Dog Trainer’s Methods:

Observe: Attend a class! If a trainer does not allow you to do so, look for a different trainer Watch the students reactions to the instructor. Are they enthusiastic or reserved? Do they seem comfortable? Both dogs and clients should enjoy themselves and a quality trainer will be courteous and polite to both human and canine students. Notice: Does the trainer provide clear instructions? Is there proper demonstrations of what the trainer expects the students to do? Do they provide students with individual assistance when needed?

Methods: A good trainer will provide you with an honest explanation of the pros and cons of methods they employ. Pay attention to what equipment is being used when you attend an observation class. What types of collars are the dogs wearing? Chokes or prong collars have their place but are not for a beginner obedience dog. Such a dog has no understanding of the new commands they are learning and should not be punished for what they do not “know”. Bullying and all similar methods or equipment that could cause the dog pain, distress or has the potential for physical harm are unacceptable. If you feel that anyone, a trainer, an animal care professional or other, is causing your dog undue pain, harm or distress in any form, you have the complete right to stop them immediately! Do so!!

Preferred Style: Ask about a trainer’s background and which style of training they prefer. A teacher whose primary experience is in Schutzhund or Protection Training may not be the first choice as a house companion dog instructor. It does not disqualify them as a quality trainer, however, an instructor who enjoys working families and children, competition obedience, Therapy Dogs or puppy kindergartens may be the preferred teacher for a companion pet.

Protect: An instructor should take steps to protect a dog’s health in a group environment. Are all dogs and puppies required to be vaccinated prior to enrollment? Which vaccines are required?

Behavior problems: Be wary if a trainer assures you that a specific behavior problem will be resolved. A trainer can assist you with behavior modification, nothing is absolute. While a good trainer should guarantee satisfaction, they should not guarantee complete results. They should instead promise to do their best and convince you to help your dog and yourself by being consistent with your pet and promising follow-up training at home.

Your Needs: Does a trainer offer multiple schooling options and advise which is best suited for your individual needs? Or does the trainer have a ‘one size fits all’ approach?

Follow Up: Does the trainer provide any satisfaction guarantees, follow-up support, and if so, what is the cost?

While a good dog trainer does not have to be expensive, don’t base your choice on price alone. Sit through a few classes and do some research before signing up for lessons. What you learn from a dog training course can mean a better behaved canine companion and make a difference in your daily life for the next 17 years.

Source:findoutaboutdogs.com